23 Jun 2023
Benjamin Witcomb
Job Title
There’s no doubt about it – rabbits, guinea pigs and hamsters will always be popular choices with clients, especially those with small children. As RVNs, SVNs and patient care assistants, we all play a role in sharing advice and knowledge on how to best care for these interesting, and somewhat charismatic, creatures.
The truth is, some may see “small furries” as inferior to the cat or dog, and it may often come as a surprise when a client is willing to spend hundreds of pounds on treatment for their hamster, which has a life span of two to three years. However, any animal can be a companion to someone, and we should always offer honest and heartfelt advice, regardless of our personal views.
Veterinary nurses should have a wealth of knowledge and experience when it comes to offering advice to clients regarding the care and husbandry of “small furries”, including husbandry, diet and general care.
Rabbits are precious creatures, which are often stressed and delicate in nature. The care of a rabbit could be described as specialised, with them having specific care requirements. Common breeds of rabbits we often see in practice are:
Owners should be advised that a rabbit’s intestines should constantly be moving. In fact, rabbits eat for around six to eight hours per day (Vets4Pets, 2023).
A rabbit should have a varied diet, which includes both fresh and dry foods, and should closely mimic that of a wild rabbit, with 85% of its diet consisting of grass or feeding hay, along with 10% greens and 5% dry rabbit pellets (RWAF, 2023b).
Eating and digesting grass and hay is vital for a rabbit’s health. Both grass and hay are high in fibre and protein, as well as containing essential nutrients. (RWAF, 2023b). They are also low in fats and sugars, keeping rabbits in a lean, slim condition.
Grass and hay also help to promote good dental hygiene. Rabbits’ teeth continue to grow throughout their lives, so the action of chewing grass and hay helps to wear down their teeth naturally (RWAF, 2023b).
Greens, vegetables and herbs, including broccoli, leafy greens, parsley and dandelions, are great for rabbits to consume. Fruits should generally be avoided due to their high concentration of natural sugars (RWAF, 2023b).
Dried pellets should be offered to rabbits once or twice a day. A small amount of one teaspoon of pellets should be offered, or as per the feeding directions on the pellets. To encourage foraging behaviour, these can be scattered around the rabbit’s enclosure. Muesli feeds should be avoided as rabbits tend to select the dried pieces, which are higher in sugar (PDSA, 2023a).
Housing requirements for rabbits can change drastically, depending on the size and breed of the rabbit. Owners should keep in mind that rabbits need a considerable amount of space to be able to exercise, explore and sleep.
A traditional, covered outdoor hutch can act as a sleeping compartment and should measure at least 6ft by 2ft as a minimum requirement. This should then be associated with an outdoor, secure run measuring 9ft by 6ft and at least 3ft in height as a minimum measurement (Blue Cross, 2023).
Outdoor hutches should consist of at least two separate compartments, have solid, non-wire flooring and a waterproof roof. Hutches should also be elevated off the ground and be located in the shade (Blue Cross, 2023).
Plenty of options are available when it comes to a rabbit’s bedding material. The most common bedding medium is straw due to its warmth and comfort. Straw should be dust-extracted, soft and have a general sweet smell (RWAF, 2023b). Other bedding mediums include:
Both winter and summer come with unique risks that can affect rabbits. From the freezing temperatures of winter to the scorching heat of summer, both seasons can cause serious health concerns and, in some cases, death. Owners should be made aware that rabbit husbandry changes, depending on the season.
In winter, provide rabbits with extra bedding, including a bottom layer of pile-type material to help keep them warm. Hutches can easily be insulated, either by applying insulation to the interior walls of the hutch or by purchasing an external hutch cover. Microwaveable heat pads can also be placed in the hutch so that the rabbits can move around and regulate their own body temperatures.
In summer, hutches should be placed in the shade and plenty of fresh water should be made available. In extreme heat, rabbits may have to be placed indoors, in a room with fans or air conditioning. Frozen water bottles can also be placed in the hutch to help aid in reducing the hutch and body temperature. Plenty of hides should be placed in rabbit runs so that there is adequate shade available for rabbits.
A multitude of different health conditions exist in rabbits that are commonly seen in practice. Owners should be advised of the most common health conditions and should be aware of what symptoms to look out for.
Rabbits are commonly seen at the veterinary practice for gut stasis. This is a disorder that includes reduced gut motility or the complete absence of gut movement. Gut stasis is usually due to an underlying illness or it can be triggered as a stress response (Duxbury, 2021).
Common symptoms (Vets Now, 2019) include:
Gut stasis should be treated as an emergency and clients should be made aware regarding the severity of the situation.
Fluid therapy should be initiated, along with gut stimulants such as maropitant. Adequate analgesia should also be provided, along with tempting the rabbit to eat.
Dacryocystitis is the inflammation of the nasolacrimal tear duct, which can often become blocked or infected. It is commonly associated with dental disease (Turner, 2010).
Symptoms can include:
Treatment should include systemic antibiotics, analgesia and a nasolacrimal duct flush. The nasolacrimal duct is often cannulated and then flushed with saline until the saline runs clear. The drainage point is from the nares of the rabbit. (Turner, 2010).
The primary cause of fly strike in rabbits is green, black and blue bottle flies laying their eggs on the skin of rabbits. These eggs then hatch into maggots, which begin to consume the rabbit’s tissues (Druce, 2015).
This is commonly seen throughout the summer months when faeces has accumulated around the perianal area. This may be a direct result of poor husbandry, poor nutrition or obesity.
Common symptoms include:
Treatment should be initiated immediately and should include clipping the area of fur followed by a thorough flush and clean. Systemic antibiotics and analgesia may be required along with parasitic treatment, such as ivermectin (Druce, 2015).
Clients should be educated regarding myiasis to help with preventing future outbreaks. By having correct husbandry, a good diet and a committed owner, the risk of fly strike is reduced drastically.
In the wild, rabbits and guinea pigs live in social groups consisting of their own species – and this should be replicated in captivity.
Rabbits and guinea pigs that are housed alone can become depressed and isolated, as well as showing behavioural signs such as self-mutilation, bar biting and starvation.
The bond that a rabbit or guinea pig has with another member of their species can not be substituted by owner interaction (RSPCA, 2019).
Rabbits and guinea pigs should have at least one bonded companion and, contrary to popular belief, this should always be another rabbit and not a guinea pig, and vice versa.
Once rabbits and guinea pigs have bonded companions, they should not be separated for any amount of time, as this can lead to health problems (RSPCA, 2019). With that in mind, it may be useful to advise clients to bring both rabbits or guinea pigs to routine vet appointments, or even for the companions to spend the day at the practice when undergoing surgery.
If a rabbit or guinea pig’s companion passes away, a new bond will need to be formed. A rabbit or guinea pig should be allowed to spend time with its deceased companion before introducing a new member to the group.
Introductions should be carried out slowly, by placing rabbits next to each other, perhaps through mesh or opposite each other in a carrier. Rabbits and guinea pigs should never be housed together with a new companion until they are fully bonded and there is minimal risk of fighting.
